Automotive Business Talk
Automotive Business Talk
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

Taurus Temperature Problem
Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Automotive Business Talk Forum Index -> Ford
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Guest






PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 4:25 pm    Post subject: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

Hello:

I have a 1998 Ford Taurus. It runs great but has a problem with
cooling. I can drive for five miles or two hundred miles and the car
temperature stays below the half way mark on the temperature gauge.
But when I stop and idle like at a redlight, the temperature goes up
and coolant boils out. If I stop too many times, I will be out of
coolant and the car will get really hot.

In the past year, I have replaced the thermostat and heater core. I
have checked the cooling fans and they seemed to be working. I added
block sealer "K and W Nanotechnology Permanent Head Gasket and Block
Repair" and that made no difference. The front spark plugs were in
perfect condition. The one back plug I removed showed a little
discoleration but was ok. There is a noise from either the water pump
or power steering pump which stops after the car has been running a
while. The coolant is slightly below a 50/50 mix.

I don't want to spend much money as I will be getting rid of the car
soon. I will pull the other two spark plugs to check for a problem
with a possible cracked head or leaking head gasket. But It seems to
me that the water pump or radiator would be the most likely remaining
causes.

Is there a way for me to check the water pump or radiator without
replacing them?

Does anyone recognize this problem or have any other suggestions?

Thanks.
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Don Byrer
Guest





PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 7:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 06:25:00 -0500, firebat@softhome.net wrote:

Quote:
Hello:

I have a 1998 Ford Taurus. It runs great but has a problem with
cooling. I can drive for five miles or two hundred miles and the car
temperature stays below the half way mark on the temperature gauge.
But when I stop and idle like at a redlight, the temperature goes up
and coolant boils out. If I stop too many times, I will be out of
coolant and the car will get really hot.

In the past year, I have replaced the thermostat and heater core. I
have checked the cooling fans and they seemed to be working. I added
block sealer "K and W Nanotechnology Permanent Head Gasket and Block
Repair" and that made no difference. The front spark plugs were in
perfect condition. The one back plug I removed showed a little
discoleration but was ok. There is a noise from either the water pump
or power steering pump which stops after the car has been running a
while. The coolant is slightly below a 50/50 mix.

I don't want to spend much money as I will be getting rid of the car
soon. I will pull the other two spark plugs to check for a problem
with a possible cracked head or leaking head gasket. But It seems to
me that the water pump or radiator would be the most likely remaining
causes.

Is there a way for me to check the water pump or radiator without
replacing them?

Does anyone recognize this problem or have any other suggestions?

Thanks.

Doesn't sound to me like a head or gasket problem.
I'm assuming you havent found coolant in the oil or vice-versa.

Several things you need in a cooling system:
-Proper coolant flow (good flow, unobstructed)
-Proper coolant
-proper airflow.
-Good radiator cap and coolant tank.

-How's the flow? that would be my FIRST thing to check. perhaps
you're missing a vane or two on the water pump or there is an
obstruction?
-Have you flushed recently? maybe flush it in sections (gently).
Could be the block sealers made the problem worse, too.
-Perhaps the fans ARENT really coming on like they should...or maybe
not at full speed? They should have full ~13.8volts when engine hot.
-Temp sensor not allowing fans to go to FULL speed?
-Is the cap doing it's job? cheap to replace.
-Thermostat incorrect or incorrectly installed?

Don Byrer KJ5KB
Radar Tech & Smilin' Commercial Pilot Guy
Glider & CFI wannabe
kj5kb-at-hotmail.com

"I have slipped the surly bonds of earth; now if I can just land without bending the gear..."
"Watch out for those doves...<smack-smack-smack-smack...>"
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Guest






PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 11:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

To: firebat@softhome.net
Subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem
From: Moses <awelch4@wi.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 09:21:04 -0700 (PDT)

I'm having the same problem with my 99. The temp gage doesn't show
overheating but the cololant will start to steam with the fans coming
on after a short trip. It's likely the radiator is plugged. I've
already replaced the water pump. Another possibility would be a blown
head gasket, though the engine still runs smooth. A blown head gasket
following a long hot highway trip is a trypical scenario. I'm taking
mine to the garage tomorrow. My car has 163 k miles, what about
yours?




On Jul 15, 6:25 am, fire...@softhome.net wrote:
Quote:
Hello:

I have a 1998 Ford Taurus. It runs great but has a problem with
cooling. I can drive for five miles or two hundred miles and the car
temperature stays below the half way mark on the temperature gauge.
But when I stop and idle like at a redlight, the temperature goes up
and coolant boils out. If I stop too many times, I will be out of
coolant and the car will get really hot.

In the past year, I have replaced the thermostat and heater core. I
have checked the cooling fans and they seemed to be working. I added
block sealer "K and W Nanotechnology Permanent Head Gasket and Block
Repair" and that made no difference. The front spark plugs were in
perfect condition. The one back plug I removed showed a little
discoleration but was ok. There is a noise from either the water pump
or power steering pump which stops after the car has been running a
while. The coolant is slightly below a 50/50 mix.

I don't want to spend much money as I will be getting rid of the car
soon. I will pull the other two spark plugs to check for a problem
with a possible cracked head or leaking head gasket. But It seems to
me that the water pump or radiator would be the most likely remaining
causes.

Is there a way for me to check the water pump or radiator without
replacing them?

Does anyone recognize this problem or have any other suggestions?

Thanks.
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Guest






PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 1:48 am    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

Here is some background information which may be important:

The vehicle was originally taken into the dealer due to a heater
problem. It took a long time to heat the interior because there was
very limited heat output into the interior. The fan had to be on low
to get any heat at all.

The dealer replaced the heater core. After this I am not 100% sure of
what happened when. However, either because the car was overheating
or becuase the heat was no longer working, the dealer replaced the
thermostat.

After leaving the shop with the thermostat, the air conditioner would
not work. A few miles down the road it started working. I think the
overheating problem started after this but I am no longer sure.

At first the problem only seemed to occur after a very long drive with
stops after the drive. It may have had the problem if I made shorter
trips but I normally drive about seventy files each way before I stop.
The problem continued to get worse, so I switched vehicles with my
wife. The problem showed up on her twenty mile compute much more than
on my long distance commute. She has to stop at lots of red lights.

I took the car back to the dealer and they said they detected a trace
of exhaust gas in the coolant. That is when I decided to use the
block seal. While flushing the system, I noted that the heater was
putting out well. While installing the seal, I noted that the heater
was not putting out. The thermostat was removed at the time.

After installing the block seal, I flushed the system and installed
new coolant. The next day, I drove about 10 miles watching the engine
temperature the entire time. The temperature was perfect when I
stopped the engine for about 30 minutes. I then started and drove
about five miles down the interstate. I exited and the temperature
was still perfect until I stopped at the fourth red light. At that
point, the temperature shot way up.

I immediately started the drive back home while attempting to avoid
stops. I made the first red light but had to stop at a stop sign. The
stop was very brief and the temperature was slightly high but did not
seem to increase (probably had already lost enough coolant to explain
the slightly elevated temperature). I drove 15 miles and the
temperature remained the same. I stopped at another red light about
five miles from home and the temperature started to increase after a
few seconds. I drove the remainging five miles at highway speed with
the temperature as before until I stopped in the driveway. The
coolant was bubbling out when I stopped the car and the temperature
increased.

Later that day, I replaced the coolant, added barsleak and idled the
car about 15 minutes. The temperature increased to just below high
and then decreased slightly.

After leaving the car off for a couple of hours, I made a trip about
two miles up the road with three stops. By the time I returned to my
drive way and stopped, the temperature was very high and the coolant
was bubbling strongly.

Two days later, I drove the car about five miles and stopped for an
hour. No problem at all. Got back in and drove two miles and there
was a stream of coolant on the concrete when I left the parking lot.
The temperature was fine for the five miles it took to return home but
the resevoir was low on coolant.

Here are the responses to your questions:

On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 10:00:03 -0400, Don Byrer <kj5kb@hotmail.com>
wrote:
Quote:

Doesn't sound to me like a head or gasket problem.
I'm assuming you havent found coolant in the oil or vice-versa.

I did not find any coolant in the oil or any oil in the coolant. Both
appear clean. There was a trace of exhaust gas in the coolant which
is why I applied the block sealer.

Quote:

Several things you need in a cooling system:
-Proper coolant flow (good flow, unobstructed)
-Proper coolant
-proper airflow.
-Good radiator cap and coolant tank.

-How's the flow? that would be my FIRST thing to check. perhaps
you're missing a vane or two on the water pump or there is an
obstruction?

Is there anyway to check coolant flow without pulling the water pump?

Quote:
-Have you flushed recently? maybe flush it in sections (gently).

I flushed it completely, after I started having the problem after the
dealer changed the thermostat and couldn't find a problem.

I flushed it again to add the sealer.

Quote:
Could be the block sealers made the problem worse, too.

It does not seem any worse and has not changed from before I added it.

Quote:
-Perhaps the fans ARENT really coming on like they should...or maybe
not at full speed? They should have full ~13.8volts when engine hot.

I will check the voltage on my next trip out.

Quote:
-Temp sensor not allowing fans to go to FULL speed?

How do I check this?

Quote:
-Is the cap doing it's job? cheap to replace.

I already replaced the cap which made no difference. I have since put
the original one back on because the replacement seemed buckled.

Quote:
-Thermostat incorrect or incorrectly installed?

I reinstalled the thermostat with the same orientation as the dealer
which appears to be correct. The pointy end is toward the radiator.
The jiggle valve is up. Unfortunately, I did not test the thermostat
while I had it out.

... Thanks,
... Commercial Pilot and CFIG
... What do you fly?

Quote:

Don Byrer KJ5KB
Radar Tech & Smilin' Commercial Pilot Guy
Glider & CFI wannabe
kj5kb-at-hotmail.com

"I have slipped the surly bonds of earth; now if I can just land without bending the gear..."
"Watch out for those doves...<smack-smack-smack-smack...>"
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Guest






PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 2:24 am    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 13:01:07 -0500, awelch4@wi.rr.com wrote:

Quote:
To: firebat@softhome.net
Subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem
From: Moses <awelch4@wi.rr.com
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 09:21:04 -0700 (PDT)

I'm having the same problem with my 99. The temp gage doesn't show
overheating but the cololant will start to steam with the fans coming
on after a short trip. It's likely the radiator is plugged. I've
already replaced the water pump. Another possibility would be a blown
head gasket, though the engine still runs smooth. A blown head gasket
following a long hot highway trip is a trypical scenario. I'm taking
mine to the garage tomorrow. My car has 163 k miles, what about
yours?

I have about 183 K miles on car. I have a noise from the "pumps" area
but I think it is the power steering pump. I will be getting rid of
the car soon but I would like to see it make it through the summer so
I can take my time deciding on a replacement. If noremote t, I have a
couple of deals in the works. Its a shame as it has four good tires,
excellent brakes, great A/C, and no problems other than overheating
(big problem).

The biggest remainging suspects are the water pump, cooling fan
circuit, and radiator.

I have seem a lot of reports of vanes corroded away in Taurus water
pumps so this seems a definite possibility.

There could be an intermittent problem with the coooling fans. I will
check their voltage when I drive the vehicle again.

It could be the radiator but I don't think so. I got normal discharge
flow when I flushed and refilled the system while attempting to
resolve this issue.

I don't think the temperature sensor is the problem since temperatures
read as expected before, during and after the overheating occurs.

The problem could still be a leaking head gasket or crack in the
block. The sealant should have fixed this problem and there was no
indication of such an issue when I checked the spark plugs, oil and
coolant. No oil in the coolant. No coolant in the oil. No sign of a
problem on the four plugs I checked.

The spark plugs were supposedly changed earlier this year. I checked
the front plugs and the easy to get to rear plug. The front plugs
were in like new condition. The rear plug had a normal appearance
instead of a like new appearance. I wonder if the dealer "forgot" to
change the back ones. In any case, I will pull the other two plugs if
I don't resolve the overheating issue or trade the car in first.

I will let you know how I resolve the problem if I am able to do so.

Thanks.
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Guest






PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 4:38 am    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

On Tue, 15 Jul 2008 17:34:58 -0700, "Arnie Quarry"
<crushedskull@violence.net> wrote:

Quote:
it's either a bad thermosensor or your electric fan has a short.

I assume you mean the temperature system in the grey housing near the
thermostat. Both radiator fans operate whenever the air conditioner
is on so I don't think it should make a difference since the PCM would
not need to turn the fans on since they are already working. I have
never not seen the fans working with the A/C on but will make sure
they kick in when the engine reaches temperature.

I will also check for 2000 ohms hot and 40000 ohms cold across the
sensor.

Thanks.
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Arnie Quarry
Guest





PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 5:34 am    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

it's either a bad thermosensor or your electric fan has a short.

<firebat@softhome.net> wrote in message
news:0m1p74lm7bht6aa3ba110r9rb02vrebg77@4ax.com...
Quote:
Hello:

I have a 1998 Ford Taurus. It runs great but has a problem with
cooling. I can drive for five miles or two hundred miles and the car
temperature stays below the half way mark on the temperature gauge.
But when I stop and idle like at a redlight, the temperature goes up
and coolant boils out. If I stop too many times, I will be out of
coolant and the car will get really hot.

In the past year, I have replaced the thermostat and heater core. I
have checked the cooling fans and they seemed to be working. I added
block sealer "K and W Nanotechnology Permanent Head Gasket and Block
Repair" and that made no difference. The front spark plugs were in
perfect condition. The one back plug I removed showed a little
discoleration but was ok. There is a noise from either the water pump
or power steering pump which stops after the car has been running a
while. The coolant is slightly below a 50/50 mix.

I don't want to spend much money as I will be getting rid of the car
soon. I will pull the other two spark plugs to check for a problem
with a possible cracked head or leaking head gasket. But It seems to
me that the water pump or radiator would be the most likely remaining
causes.

Is there a way for me to check the water pump or radiator without
replacing them?

Does anyone recognize this problem or have any other suggestions?

Thanks.
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Guest






PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:13 am    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

Hello:

Thanks for all your suggestions. Based on them, I was better able to
isolate the problem and eliminate some of the possiblities.

I ran the engine on idle for 10 minutes and verified the fans were
working ok. I let the car sit for an hour and made two 3-mile trips.
For both trips, the temperature gauge remained below the half way mark
at the same point as in all my ford vehicles. The final trip home was
at normal temperature. It was still at normal temperature when I
stopped but I left the car running so I could check the radiator fans.
It took me a minute to get the hood up and the radiator fans were
working fine. I left the car running and the temperature gauge climed
to a little more than 3/4 of the safe range and stayed there. When I
turned the car off the temperature dropped 1/16 to 1/8 of the range.

I shut the car off and after a couple of minutes restarted it and
checked the temperature again. It was now about 1/2 way on the guage.

After a few more minutes, I restarted it and the temperature had
dropped to the normal operating temperature but increase after a
minute or so back up to the half way point.

The radiator fans were going whether or not the A/C was on. Earlier
they only ran when the A/C was on. I think the sensor and fans can be
elimiated as a posssible cause of the problem.

I don't know how this works on modern vehicles, but the upper radiator
hose is easy to squeeze. If I recall correctly from my younger days,
this indicates a flow problem. That would point to either the
radiator, an obstruction in the hoses, or the water pump. Is this
correct and still applicable?

What do you think would be most likely and what should I do next?

Am I totally off track?

Thanks.
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Guest






PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:16 am    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

Hello:

Thanks for all your suggestions. Based on them, I was better able to
isolate the problem and eliminate some of the possiblities.

I ran the engine on idle for 10 minutes and verified the fans were
working ok. I let the car sit for an hour and made two 3-mile trips.
For both trips, the temperature gauge remained below the half way mark
at the same point as in all my ford vehicles. The final trip home was
at normal temperature. It was still at normal temperature when I
stopped but I left the car running so I could check the radiator fans.
It took me a minute to get the hood up and the radiator fans were
working fine. I left the car running and the temperature gauge climed
to a little more than 3/4 of the safe range and stayed there. When I
turned the car off the temperature dropped 1/16 to 1/8 of the range.

I shut the car off and after a couple of minutes restarted it and
checked the temperature again. It was now about 1/2 way on the guage.

After a few more minutes, I restarted it and the temperature had
dropped to the normal operating temperature but increase after a
minute or so back up to the half way point.

The radiator fans were going whether or not the A/C was on. Earlier
they only ran when the A/C was on. I think the sensor and fans can be
elimiated as a posssible cause of the problem.

I don't know how this works on modern vehicles, but the upper radiator
hose is easy to squeeze. If I recall correctly from my younger days,
this indicates a flow problem. That would point to either the
radiator, an obstruction in the hoses, or the water pump. Is this
correct and still applicable?

What do you think would be most likely and what should I do next?

Am I totally off track?

Thanks.
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Al
Guest





PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:47 am    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

egnew@charter.net wrote:
Quote:
Hello:

Thanks for all your suggestions. Based on them, I was better able to
isolate the problem and eliminate some of the possiblities.

I ran the engine on idle for 10 minutes and verified the fans were
working ok. I let the car sit for an hour and made two 3-mile trips.
For both trips, the temperature gauge remained below the half way mark
at the same point as in all my ford vehicles. The final trip home was
at normal temperature. It was still at normal temperature when I
stopped but I left the car running so I could check the radiator fans.
It took me a minute to get the hood up and the radiator fans were
working fine. I left the car running and the temperature gauge climed
to a little more than 3/4 of the safe range and stayed there. When I
turned the car off the temperature dropped 1/16 to 1/8 of the range.

I shut the car off and after a couple of minutes restarted it and
checked the temperature again. It was now about 1/2 way on the guage.

After a few more minutes, I restarted it and the temperature had
dropped to the normal operating temperature but increase after a
minute or so back up to the half way point.

The radiator fans were going whether or not the A/C was on. Earlier
they only ran when the A/C was on. I think the sensor and fans can be
elimiated as a posssible cause of the problem.

I don't know how this works on modern vehicles, but the upper radiator
hose is easy to squeeze. If I recall correctly from my younger days,
this indicates a flow problem. That would point to either the
radiator, an obstruction in the hoses, or the water pump. Is this
correct and still applicable?

What do you think would be most likely and what should I do next?

Am I totally off track?

Thanks.

You stated that someone had put in a new heater core and you think the
problem may have started around that time. Have you rechecked all the
work that was done at that time - maybe they reversed the heater hoses
or installed the heater control valve backward or pinched/kinked one of
those hoses.

The upper hose, being the outlet hose, is not usually a problem. A
spongy lower hose can collapse from the suction of the water pump - but
that is usually something that occurs at high rpm and your problem is
the opposite - low rpm.

I would check that all hoses are going to the correct place, maybe check
that thermostat again (even try running the car for a few days without
it).
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Ted Mittelstaedt
Guest





PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 10:39 am    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

<firebat@softhome.net> wrote in message
news:kfmq74ds1hcugmufsbd491ilp5pf0r2co2@4ax.com...
Quote:
Hello:

Thanks for all your suggestions. Based on them, I was better able to
isolate the problem and eliminate some of the possiblities.

I ran the engine on idle for 10 minutes and verified the fans were
working ok. I let the car sit for an hour and made two 3-mile trips.
For both trips, the temperature gauge remained below the half way mark
at the same point as in all my ford vehicles. The final trip home was
at normal temperature. It was still at normal temperature when I
stopped but I left the car running so I could check the radiator fans.
It took me a minute to get the hood up and the radiator fans were
working fine. I left the car running and the temperature gauge climed
to a little more than 3/4 of the safe range and stayed there. When I
turned the car off the temperature dropped 1/16 to 1/8 of the range.

I shut the car off and after a couple of minutes restarted it and
checked the temperature again. It was now about 1/2 way on the guage.

After a few more minutes, I restarted it and the temperature had
dropped to the normal operating temperature but increase after a
minute or so back up to the half way point.

The radiator fans were going whether or not the A/C was on. Earlier
they only ran when the A/C was on. I think the sensor and fans can be
elimiated as a posssible cause of the problem.

I don't know how this works on modern vehicles, but the upper radiator
hose is easy to squeeze. If I recall correctly from my younger days,
this indicates a flow problem. That would point to either the
radiator, an obstruction in the hoses, or the water pump. Is this
correct and still applicable?

What do you think would be most likely and what should I do next?


I think you have a bad head gasket. Block sealer was the wrong thing
to put in, it never works. You should immediately check for water in the
exhaust, for water leaks from the block, and for water in the oil.

Assuming you still have a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze, smell and
observe the exhaust when the car is hot. Then let it cool down and
get cold then start it again, let it run a 30 seconds or so, then shut it
off.
If you smell antifreeze at any time from the exhaust, or any water dripping
from the exhaust feels slick between the fingers or smells of antifreeze,
your gasket has failed.

If the car is losing water and there are no leaks from the block the gasket
has failed.

If there's water in the oil the gasket has failed.

The reason your cooling has shot to hell is because the exhaust and
combustion chamber are at a higher pressure than the coolant, and
exhaust gas is being forced into the coolant, causing air bubbles.

I think your putting your head in the sand and hoping it isn't a head
gasket.

Ted
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Tom Adkins
Guest





PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 1:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

Actually, with the rarity of blown head gaskets on these cars, I would
look closer at the water pump.

Late 90s Tauri have a bad habit of eroding the water pump impeller
fins away. I would be very surprised if this car had a failed head
gasket and even more surprised if it has never needed a water pump
replacement.

A good shop can quickly test for combustion gases in the coolant to
confirm or deny a head gasket issue.
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Arnie Quarry
Guest





PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 9:26 am    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

"Tom Adkins" <xtadkins@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ba4c03a2-b8d5-4aaf-a064-9794edcf74c5@e53g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
Quote:
A good shop can quickly test for combustion gases in the coolant to
confirm or deny a head gasket issue.

Yeah, but most shops will lie and tell him the head gasket is blown just to
make a fortune off the labor.
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Ted Mittelstaedt
Guest





PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 11:02 am    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

"Arnie Quarry" <crushedskull@violence.net> wrote in message
news:r_qdna8B39v0AuPVnZ2dnUVZ_iydnZ2d@bright.net...
Quote:
"Tom Adkins" <xtadkins@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ba4c03a2-b8d5-4aaf-a064-9794edcf74c5@e53g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
A good shop can quickly test for combustion gases in the coolant to
confirm or deny a head gasket issue.

Yeah, but most shops will lie and tell him the head gasket is blown just
to
make a fortune off the labor.


Testing for combustion gasses in the coolant is one of those things that
if they do find them that is proof that the gasket is bad, HOWEVER if
they DON'T find them that is NOT proof that the gasket is GOOD.

So in effect you cannot deny a head gasket issue simply by the absense
of combustion gasses in the coolant.

Ted
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Tom Adkins
Guest





PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 1:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Taurus Temperature Problem Reply with quote

On Jul 17, 3:30 am, "Ted Mittelstaedt" <t...@toybox.placo.com> wrote:

Quote:
Testing for combustion gasses in the coolant is one of those things that
if they do find them that is proof that the gasket is bad, HOWEVER if
they DON'T find them that is NOT proof that the gasket is GOOD.

So in effect you cannot deny a head gasket issue simply by the absense
of combustion gasses in the coolant.

Ted

Obviously, if the HG failure is cylinder to cylinder or to atmosphere
there will not be combustion gases in the coolant. A combustion leak
into the cooling system (and subsequent overheating) will show gases
in the cooling system
Back to top
  Ads
Advertising
Sponsor


Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Automotive Business Talk Forum Index -> Ford All times are GMT
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Australian Debt Consolidation Experts
medical insurance
Wedding
Escort e accompagnatrice in Rimini, Reggio Emilia, in Riviera Adriatica, in Modena...
Swingers Contacts Canada
AdWords Talk
Make Your Own Website
Cheap calls to Saudi Arabia
Cleaning Service
Mold
UK Swingers Genuine Contacts Site
floor machines
Eureka Vacuum Bags


Board Security

62 Attacks blocked

Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group