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Alan B. Mac Farlane
Guest
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 Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 4:21 am Post subject: Re: no spark from coil |
 |
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in article
f0d4369b-f68d-4920-be82-457272e4870d@v26g2000prm.googlegroups.com,
SPMcClellan@gmail.com at SPMcClellan@gmail.com wrote on 7/4/08 9:43 AM:
| Quote: |
The engine was soaked in oil, so I will get some contact cleaner and
go through the connections cleaning them all.
|
that is just so you can get a voltage meter ... and go from battery to
ground.
trace out the wires ... from the postive battery post, to the selenoid, to
the distributor to the ignition ... etc ... all suppose to be hot at all
times or just certain times depending on engine operation.
for example turn the key to start ... the start wire to the selenoid is
suppose to be hot, get a 12 volt reading on that wire. If the turn key
ignition switch is hot from the battery, and hot to the selenoid once turned
.... then that focus the question on why the distributor is not getting fire
from the selenoid only.
Follow the hot wires guy. Battery to ground.
Get a volt/amp meter ... the wires must have continunity and not be broken,
and they must be hot at the right times.
if your coil is hot wire going in ... and not hot going out ... then the
grounding has to be off somewhere with the coil, or the coil is sick. Since
you have a new coil ... then making sure the metal back plate of the coil is
on fresh scratched metal of the fender wall where it is mounted.'
Just a little bit of rust can stop the flow of electrons.
Turbo Diesel Fords have a 115v DC kicking their glow plugs ... so switching
them on and laying bare hand to them is going to HURT a LOT if you ever have
to electrical fault one of them. Be very carefull with Ford Diesel Turbos.
sumbuddie wear blind sea
:) |
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Alan B. Mac Farlane
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 4:25 am Post subject: Re: no spark from coil |
|
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in article
d002a4b6-82e5-4a64-b390-6bda04aa2140@a32g2000prf.googlegroups.com,
SPMcClellan@gmail.com at SPMcClellan@gmail.com wrote on 7/4/08 11:49 AM:
| Quote: |
Ok, I got some contact cleaner and opened all the connections and
cleaned them out. I also cleaned the battery posts and verified the
cells all had water. I have a good solid cranking action, I have fuel,
but I still have no spar
|
The cells have to each get a hydrometer test to make sure they are each
working and still alive ... the battery has to take a load test. With a
voltage meter ... it will show 12 volts from post to post. Follow that hot
12 volts from the postive post ... to the starter, ignition switch,
distributor, selenoid, and spark plugs.
On a Ford ... good solid cranking action is not enough. All Fords require a
fully functional battery with all cells going. This must be tested by a
battery person who has the proper battery testing tools ... or you get the
tools and test it your self. After that ... it is just battery to ground
with a voltage meter for continunity of the wires ... and follow the juice.
Easy as pee eye eee.
sumbuddie wear blind sea
:) |
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Alan B. Mac Farlane
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 4:28 am Post subject: Re: no spark from coil |
|
|
in article ffos64hpdbibhsumkef3q3n07p010mt1pa@4ax.com, Tim J. at
tj66821@usa.not wrote on 7/4/08 10:46 AM:
| Quote: |
WHAT THE FUCK ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT?
He started his holiday partying early.
|
People stuck in their toddler tantrum are always lost.
If you have the wit for it, you can spot them every time no matter how much
strategerie they have at hand to beguile you with their Grim Pills that
pretend to make you better ... but just make you ill ...
Here have a Pill Grim ... see what it does.
:( |
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Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 6:09 am Post subject: Re: no spark from coil |
|
|
On Jul 4, 7:43 pm, "Jim Warman" <mecha...@telusplanet.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
Not many are familiar with theFestiva.... me included... This is,
basically, a Japanese car with aFordbadge....
One of our janitors has aFestiva.... When I see his hood up, I tend to run
like hell in the other direction...
Hall effect, reluctor and optical are the three most evident "triggers"
found in automotive use... My corporate server has absolutely nothing for a
car this old.
So let's wing it... You have replaced just about every expensive part you
can replace... You have checked for voltage and grounds as per the schematic
(this gets me worried because I see how ":trained" guys can screw up
electrical testing... ).
You have a new timing belt... when did that happen?
Stab a test light into the switched side of the ignitioncoil.... does the
test light flash when the engine is cranked?
SPMcClel...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:87ab2f03-edf9-4c44-8ba1-105d6cf0ff84@i76g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 4, 3:32 pm, ToolNut <maxxu...@yahoo.com> wrote:
On Jul 2, 9:03 pm, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
Hello, I am having the same problem with 93fordfestiva. I have been
working on this for weeks now. I have replaced the distributor, the
coil, the ignition module, and the ECM and stillnoluck. Have you
found anything? I would love to hear any ideas. I have gone through
all the ignition tests in the book and they seem to take me in
circles.
Is it possible the hall effect module could be bad or the gap between
the module and reluctor is too wide. I'm shooting in the dark here
because I don't know theFestivaIgn. system so I'm assuming thats how
thecoilis triggered.
Rick
I am sorry, I don't know what the hall effect module is or the
reluctor. This car has an optical distributor with an electronic
advance. With in the distributor, there is a small disk with 4 holes.
This spins and when the light shines through the holes, it is supposed
to send a signal to the PCM which in turn tells thecoilto (via the
ignition module) to sendsparkto the distributor. At least that is
how I understand it. If anyone could shed some more light on that it
would be great. Thanks, Steve
|
I wish I were "trained", I am just a guy trying to save some money on
gas hoping to get this little car running. I am grasping for anything
at this point. When I put the probe of a test light into the switched
side of the coil, my light comes on and stays solid even when cranked.
It does not flash. I bought the engine from "Foreign engines" and
placed it in this car. The timing belt was examined at this point and
determined to be a new belt as the writing had not yet been worn from
the belt and the cogs were in new condition. I did not pull the belt,
but I did pull the idler to check it's condition. Then it all went
back together and into the car. The distributor is such that it can
only go in one way. It has a horizontal bar vs a gear and the way that
the mounting bolts are arranged, it only allows installation in one
position. Also, the parts I have replaced were from a wrecking yard
and thus their condition are not guaranteed good. Even that cost a lot
though! Thanks again for all you help thus far. Steve |
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Jim Warman
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 6:43 am Post subject: Re: no spark from coil |
|
|
Not many are familiar with the Festiva.... me included... This is,
basically, a Japanese car with a Ford badge....
One of our janitors has a Festiva.... When I see his hood up, I tend to run
like hell in the other direction...
Hall effect, reluctor and optical are the three most evident "triggers"
found in automotive use... My corporate server has absolutely nothing for a
car this old.
So let's wing it... You have replaced just about every expensive part you
can replace... You have checked for voltage and grounds as per the schematic
(this gets me worried because I see how ":trained" guys can screw up
electrical testing... ).
You have a new timing belt... when did that happen?
Stab a test light into the switched side of the ignition coil.... does the
test light flash when the engine is cranked?
<SPMcClellan@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:87ab2f03-edf9-4c44-8ba1-105d6cf0ff84@i76g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
| Quote: |
On Jul 4, 3:32 pm, ToolNut <maxxu...@yahoo.com> wrote:
On Jul 2, 9:03 pm, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
Hello, I am having the same problem with 93fordfestiva. I have been
working on this for weeks now. I have replaced the distributor, the
coil, the ignition module, and the ECM and stillnoluck. Have you
found anything? I would love to hear any ideas. I have gone through
all the ignition tests in the book and they seem to take me in
circles.
Is it possible the hall effect module could be bad or the gap between
the module and reluctor is too wide. I'm shooting in the dark here
because I don't know theFestivaIgn. system so I'm assuming thats how
thecoilis triggered.
Rick
I am sorry, I don't know what the hall effect module is or the
reluctor. This car has an optical distributor with an electronic
advance. With in the distributor, there is a small disk with 4 holes.
This spins and when the light shines through the holes, it is supposed
to send a signal to the PCM which in turn tells the coil to (via the
ignition module) to send spark to the distributor. At least that is
how I understand it. If anyone could shed some more light on that it
would be great. Thanks, Steve |
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Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 7:21 am Post subject: Re: no spark from coil |
|
|
On Fri, 04 Jul 2008 16:25:52 -0700, "Alan B. Mac Farlane"
<alanb@sonic.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
in article
d002a4b6-82e5-4a64-b390-6bda04aa2140@a32g2000prf.googlegroups.com,
SPMcClellan@gmail.com at SPMcClellan@gmail.com wrote on 7/4/08 11:49 AM:
Ok, I got some contact cleaner and opened all the connections and
cleaned them out. I also cleaned the battery posts and verified the
cells all had water. I have a good solid cranking action, I have fuel,
but I still have no spar
The cells have to each get a hydrometer test to make sure they are each
working and still alive ... the battery has to take a load test. With a
voltage meter ... it will show 12 volts from post to post. Follow that hot
12 volts from the postive post ... to the starter, ignition switch,
distributor, selenoid, and spark plugs.
On a Ford ... good solid cranking action is not enough. All Fords require a
fully functional battery with all cells going. This must be tested by a
battery person who has the proper battery testing tools ... or you get the
tools and test it your self. After that ... it is just battery to ground
with a voltage meter for continunity of the wires ... and follow the juice.
Easy as pee eye eee.
sumbuddie wear blind sea
:)
BS. Put a voltmeter on the battery and crank it. If it does not drop |
below 10 volts, you do NOT have a battery problem.
I'm suspicious your optical trigger is bad. If the engine was covered
with oil, how about the light source and sensor in the distributor?
ANY oil in there WILL cause a problem (which is why I am not a fan of
aptical pickups)
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
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Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 10:31 pm Post subject: Re: no spark from coil |
|
|
On Jul 5, 12:09 am, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
| Quote: |
On Jul 4, 7:43 pm, "Jim Warman" <mecha...@telusplanet.net> wrote:
Not many are familiar with theFestiva.... me included... This is,
basically, a Japanese car with aFordbadge....
One of our janitors has aFestiva.... When I see his hood up, I tend to run
like hell in the other direction...
Hall effect, reluctor and optical are the three most evident "triggers"
found in automotive use... My corporate server has absolutely nothing for a
car this old.
So let's wing it... You have replaced just about every expensive part you
can replace... You have checked for voltage and grounds as per the schematic
(this gets me worried because I see how ":trained" guys can screw up
electrical testing... ).
You have a new timing belt... when did that happen?
Stab a test light into the switched side of the ignitioncoil.... does the
test light flash when the engine is cranked?
SPMcClel...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:87ab2f03-edf9-4c44-8ba1-105d6cf0ff84@i76g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 4, 3:32 pm, ToolNut <maxxu...@yahoo.com> wrote:
On Jul 2, 9:03 pm, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
Hello, I am having the same problem with 93fordfestiva. I have been
working on this for weeks now. I have replaced the distributor, the
coil, the ignition module, and the ECM and stillnoluck. Have you
found anything? I would love to hear any ideas. I have gone through
all the ignition tests in the book and they seem to take me in
circles.
Is it possible the hall effect module could be bad or the gap between
the module and reluctor is too wide. I'm shooting in the dark here
because I don't know theFestivaIgn. system so I'm assuming thats how
thecoilis triggered.
Rick
I am sorry, I don't know what the hall effect module is or the
reluctor. This car has an optical distributor with an electronic
advance. With in the distributor, there is a small disk with 4 holes.
This spins and when the light shines through the holes, it is supposed
to send a signal to the PCM which in turn tells thecoilto (via the
ignition module) to sendsparkto the distributor. At least that is
how I understand it. If anyone could shed some more light on that it
would be great. Thanks, Steve
I wish I were "trained", I am just a guy trying to save some money on
gas hoping to get this little car running. I am grasping for anything
at this point. When I put the probe of a test light into the switched
side of thecoil, my light comes on and stays solid even when cranked.
It does not flash. I bought the engine from "Foreign engines" and
placed it in this car. The timing belt was examined at this point and
determined to be a new belt as the writing had not yet been worn from
the belt and the cogs were in new condition. I did not pull the belt,
but I did pull the idler to check it's condition. Then it all went
back together and into the car. The distributor is such that it can
only go in one way. It has a horizontal bar vs a gear and the way that
the mounting bolts are arranged, it only allows installation in one
position. Also, the parts I have replaced were from a wrecking yard
and thus their condition are not guaranteed good. Even that cost a lot
though! Thanks again for all you help thus far. Steve
|
I was looking though my the FORD tech CD and found out how to pull the
codes from the PCM. After hooking it up, I went to observe the check
engine light and it never comes on. I then tried the instructions for
using an analog VOM and when I turn the key on, I get 12 volts
continuously instead of the bouncing meter I would have expected to
display the codes. Also, I noticed that after I tried this test, the
coil got very hot. This is sounding more and more like a wiring
problem within the harness, but I don't know where to start
diagnostics on that. |
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Guest
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| Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 12:04 am Post subject: Re: no spark from coil |
|
|
On Jul 5, 4:31 pm, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
| Quote: |
On Jul 5, 12:09 am, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
On Jul 4, 7:43 pm, "Jim Warman" <mecha...@telusplanet.net> wrote:
Not many are familiar with theFestiva.... me included... This is,
basically, a Japanese car with aFordbadge....
One of our janitors has aFestiva.... When I see his hood up, I tend to run
like hell in the other direction...
Hall effect, reluctor and optical are the three most evident "triggers"
found in automotive use... My corporate server has absolutely nothing for a
car this old.
So let's wing it... You have replaced just about every expensive part you
can replace... You have checked for voltage and grounds as per the schematic
(this gets me worried because I see how ":trained" guys can screw up
electrical testing... ).
You have a new timing belt... when did that happen?
Stab a test light into the switched side of the ignitioncoil.... does the
test light flash when the engine is cranked?
SPMcClel...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:87ab2f03-edf9-4c44-8ba1-105d6cf0ff84@i76g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 4, 3:32 pm, ToolNut <maxxu...@yahoo.com> wrote:
On Jul 2, 9:03 pm, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
Hello, I am having the same problem with 93fordfestiva. I have been
working on this for weeks now. I have replaced the distributor, the
coil, the ignition module, and the ECM and stillnoluck. Have you
found anything? I would love to hear any ideas. I have gone through
all the ignition tests in the book and they seem to take me in
circles.
Is it possible the hall effect module could be bad or the gap between
the module and reluctor is too wide. I'm shooting in the dark here
because I don't know theFestivaIgn. system so I'm assuming thats how
thecoilis triggered.
Rick
I am sorry, I don't know what the hall effect module is or the
reluctor. This car has an optical distributor with an electronic
advance. With in the distributor, there is a small disk with 4 holes.
This spins and when the light shines through the holes, it is supposed
to send a signal to the PCM which in turn tells thecoilto (via the
ignition module) to sendsparkto the distributor. At least that is
how I understand it. If anyone could shed some more light on that it
would be great. Thanks, Steve
I wish I were "trained", I am just a guy trying to save some money on
gas hoping to get this little car running. I am grasping for anything
at this point. When I put the probe of a test light into the switched
side of thecoil, my light comes on and stays solid even when cranked.
It does not flash. I bought the engine from "Foreign engines" and
placed it in this car. The timing belt was examined at this point and
determined to be a new belt as the writing had not yet been worn from
the belt and the cogs were in new condition. I did not pull the belt,
but I did pull the idler to check it's condition. Then it all went
back together and into the car. The distributor is such that it can
only go in one way. It has a horizontal bar vs a gear and the way that
the mounting bolts are arranged, it only allows installation in one
position. Also, the parts I have replaced were from a wrecking yard
and thus their condition are not guaranteed good. Even that cost a lot
though! Thanks again for all you help thus far. Steve
I was looking though my theFORDtech CD and found out how to pull the
codes from the PCM. After hooking it up, I went to observe the check
engine light and it never comes on. I then tried the instructions for
using an analog VOM and when I turn the key on, I get 12 volts
continuously instead of the bouncing meter I would have expected to
display the codes. Also, I noticed that after I tried this test, thecoilgot very hot. This is sounding more and more like a wiring
problem within the harness, but I don't know where to start
diagnostics on that.
|
My Bad... there are two connectors there that are the same shape and
both have yellow/green wires. I was on the wrong yellow/green. It was
to the tachometer (if I had one). I found the correct yellow/green and
still no check engine light, but when I try the VOM, then I get a
solid 12 volts when I turn the ignition on. I am assuming this means
there are no codes stored. |
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Alan B. Mac Farlane
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ADdiy55
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:36 am Post subject: Re: no spark from coil |
|
|
On Jul 2, 9:03 pm, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
| Quote: |
Hello, I am having the same problem with 93 ford festiva. I have been
working on this for weeks now. I have replaced the distributor, the
coil, the ignition module, and the ECM and still no luck. Have you
found anything? I would love to hear any ideas. I have gone through
all the ignition tests in the book and they seem to take me in
circles.
|
Hey here,
I had a similar problem with my 94 Ford Festiva and I subscribed to
ALLDATAdiy.com and it has been very useful. I am handy and like to do
things myself and this subscription gives me diagnosis, repair, TBSs,
recalls and labor times. I hope you find it useful - it's pretty cheap
considering the information comes directly from the manufacturer.
Check it out - I copied the link below for you.
http://traffic.alldatadiy.com/cgi-bin/redir?pd_link=i1-a44690-o4010-c66365
Andy Deil |
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Guest
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| Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 6:05 am Post subject: Re: no spark from coil |
|
|
On Sat, 5 Jul 2008 17:04:04 -0700 (PDT), SPMcClellan@gmail.com wrote:
| Quote: |
On Jul 5, 4:31 pm, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
On Jul 5, 12:09 am, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
On Jul 4, 7:43 pm, "Jim Warman" <mecha...@telusplanet.net> wrote:
Not many are familiar with theFestiva.... me included... This is,
basically, a Japanese car with aFordbadge....
One of our janitors has aFestiva.... When I see his hood up, I tend to run
like hell in the other direction...
Hall effect, reluctor and optical are the three most evident "triggers"
found in automotive use... My corporate server has absolutely nothing for a
car this old.
So let's wing it... You have replaced just about every expensive part you
can replace... You have checked for voltage and grounds as per the schematic
(this gets me worried because I see how ":trained" guys can screw up
electrical testing... ).
You have a new timing belt... when did that happen?
Stab a test light into the switched side of the ignitioncoil.... does the
test light flash when the engine is cranked?
SPMcClel...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:87ab2f03-edf9-4c44-8ba1-105d6cf0ff84@i76g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 4, 3:32 pm, ToolNut <maxxu...@yahoo.com> wrote:
On Jul 2, 9:03 pm, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
Hello, I am having the same problem with 93fordfestiva. I have been
working on this for weeks now. I have replaced the distributor, the
coil, the ignition module, and the ECM and stillnoluck. Have you
found anything? I would love to hear any ideas. I have gone through
all the ignition tests in the book and they seem to take me in
circles.
Is it possible the hall effect module could be bad or the gap between
the module and reluctor is too wide. I'm shooting in the dark here
because I don't know theFestivaIgn. system so I'm assuming thats how
thecoilis triggered.
Rick
I am sorry, I don't know what the hall effect module is or the
reluctor. This car has an optical distributor with an electronic
advance. With in the distributor, there is a small disk with 4 holes.
This spins and when the light shines through the holes, it is supposed
to send a signal to the PCM which in turn tells thecoilto (via the
ignition module) to sendsparkto the distributor. At least that is
how I understand it. If anyone could shed some more light on that it
would be great. Thanks, Steve
I wish I were "trained", I am just a guy trying to save some money on
gas hoping to get this little car running. I am grasping for anything
at this point. When I put the probe of a test light into the switched
side of thecoil, my light comes on and stays solid even when cranked.
It does not flash. I bought the engine from "Foreign engines" and
placed it in this car. The timing belt was examined at this point and
determined to be a new belt as the writing had not yet been worn from
the belt and the cogs were in new condition. I did not pull the belt,
but I did pull the idler to check it's condition. Then it all went
back together and into the car. The distributor is such that it can
only go in one way. It has a horizontal bar vs a gear and the way that
the mounting bolts are arranged, it only allows installation in one
position. Also, the parts I have replaced were from a wrecking yard
and thus their condition are not guaranteed good. Even that cost a lot
though! Thanks again for all you help thus far. Steve
I was looking though my theFORDtech CD and found out how to pull the
codes from the PCM. After hooking it up, I went to observe the check
engine light and it never comes on. I then tried the instructions for
using an analog VOM and when I turn the key on, I get 12 volts
continuously instead of the bouncing meter I would have expected to
display the codes. Also, I noticed that after I tried this test, thecoilgot very hot. This is sounding more and more like a wiring
problem within the harness, but I don't know where to start
diagnostics on that.
My Bad... there are two connectors there that are the same shape and
both have yellow/green wires. I was on the wrong yellow/green. It was
to the tachometer (if I had one). I found the correct yellow/green and
still no check engine light, but when I try the VOM, then I get a
solid 12 volts when I turn the ignition on. I am assuming this means
there are no codes stored.
|
OK
You KNOW you have power to the coil, and the coil primary is good. The
coil is not being grounded by the PCM. You need to find out if the
trigger in the distributor is working. It MUST be PERFECTLY clean.
What year is the Festiva? I MIGHT have info available about what
signal you should see where, and how to "fool" the PCM to see if it
works.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
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Comboverfish
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 2:53 pm Post subject: Re: no spark from coil |
|
|
On Jul 5, 7:04 pm, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
| Quote: |
On Jul 5, 4:31 pm, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
On Jul 5, 12:09 am, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
On Jul 4, 7:43 pm, "Jim Warman" <mecha...@telusplanet.net> wrote:
Not many are familiar with theFestiva.... me included... This is,
basically, a Japanese car with aFordbadge....
One of our janitors has aFestiva.... When I see his hood up, I tend to run
like hell in the other direction...
Hall effect, reluctor and optical are the three most evident "triggers"
found in automotive use... My corporate server has absolutely nothing for a
car this old.
So let's wing it... You have replaced just about every expensive part you
can replace... You have checked for voltage and grounds as per the schematic
(this gets me worried because I see how ":trained" guys can screw up
electrical testing... ).
You have a new timing belt... when did that happen?
Stab a test light into the switched side of the ignitioncoil.... does the
test light flash when the engine is cranked?
SPMcClel...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:87ab2f03-edf9-4c44-8ba1-105d6cf0ff84@i76g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 4, 3:32 pm, ToolNut <maxxu...@yahoo.com> wrote:
On Jul 2, 9:03 pm, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
Hello, I am having the same problem with 93fordfestiva. I have been
working on this for weeks now. I have replaced the distributor, the
coil, the ignition module, and the ECM and stillnoluck. Have you
found anything? I would love to hear any ideas. I have gone through
all the ignition tests in the book and they seem to take me in
circles.
Is it possible the hall effect module could be bad or the gap between
the module and reluctor is too wide. I'm shooting in the dark here
because I don't know theFestivaIgn. system so I'm assuming thats how
thecoilis triggered.
Rick
I am sorry, I don't know what the hall effect module is or the
reluctor. This car has an optical distributor with an electronic
advance. With in the distributor, there is a small disk with 4 holes.
This spins and when the light shines through the holes, it is supposed
to send a signal to the PCM which in turn tells thecoilto (via the
ignition module) to sendsparkto the distributor. At least that is
how I understand it. If anyone could shed some more light on that it
would be great. Thanks, Steve
I wish I were "trained", I am just a guy trying to save some money on
gas hoping to get this little car running. I am grasping for anything
at this point. When I put the probe of a test light into the switched
side of thecoil, my light comes on and stays solid even when cranked.
It does not flash. I bought the engine from "Foreign engines" and
placed it in this car. The timing belt was examined at this point and
determined to be a new belt as the writing had not yet been worn from
the belt and the cogs were in new condition. I did not pull the belt,
but I did pull the idler to check it's condition. Then it all went
back together and into the car. The distributor is such that it can
only go in one way. It has a horizontal bar vs a gear and the way that
the mounting bolts are arranged, it only allows installation in one
position. Also, the parts I have replaced were from a wrecking yard
and thus their condition are not guaranteed good. Even that cost a lot
though! Thanks again for all you help thus far. Steve
I was looking though my theFORDtech CD and found out how to pull the
codes from the PCM. After hooking it up, I went to observe the check
engine light and it never comes on. I then tried the instructions for
using an analog VOM and when I turn the key on, I get 12 volts
continuously instead of the bouncing meter I would have expected to
display the codes. Also, I noticed that after I tried this test, thecoilgot very hot. This is sounding more and more like a wiring
problem within the harness, but I don't know where to start
diagnostics on that.
My Bad... there are two connectors there that are the same shape and
both have yellow/green wires. I was on the wrong yellow/green. It was
to the tachometer (if I had one). I found the correct yellow/green and
still no check engine light, but when I try the VOM, then I get a
solid 12 volts when I turn the ignition on. I am assuming this means
there are no codes stored.
|
It sounds like your check engine light isn't coming on at all, even
for a key on self check. I would check the "EGI" fuse located in a
small box called the Main Fuse Link Panel near the left strut tower in
the engine compartment. It is a 15 amp fuse, the box cover should
label it as "EGI". Also check the "Main Relay" located near this fuse
box in another relay box. You won't have crank signal CKP, fuel
pressure, fuel injector operation, etc, and I suspect the ECM will not
be able to turn on the check engine light without power at either of
these two points.
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Comboverfish
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| Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:32 pm Post subject: Re: no spark from coil |
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On Jul 5, 7:04 pm, SPMcClel...@gmail.com wrote:
| Quote: |
stuff about a 93 Festiva
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I wanted also to mention that you are seeing ignition coil B+ with a
test light because it comes from the ign key through another fuse. It
is not toggling on/off since there is no ignition primary control,
likely due to the blown EGI fuse or open circuit, resulting in an
offline ECM and missing sensors such as the CKP, as theorized in my
last post.
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